now that the summer temperature's have kicked in, and the winter swells have hit Hawaii's North Shore I'm so keen to go for a surf. Problem being right now I'm an hour away from the ocean and don't have a car to transport myself and my board. The closest to this beloved sport i can get right now is sitting on the lounge watching the pipeline masters and hosing myself in the backyard (yes, i do that, why not.)
Oh and I'm going to hawaii again next July, the ocean is flat, but seeing as none of us can surf well enough to tackle their waves in our lifetime we'll just have to settle for paddle boarding on pristine empty beaches with sea turtles.
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